2014-05-10

related: svalbard

Good morning, Longyearbyen!  This is our hotel.

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This is the only morning I wake up early enough to join the rest for breakfast nearby.

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After breakfast, the weather has changed a bit.

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It’s only -10C, though windy.

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The tour guides pick us up and drive us to today’s starting point.

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“We’re just hiking up this mountain,” he says.

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Up there?  I’m considering going home.

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But instead, stupidly, I start the climb.

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And immediately fall behind.

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It’s cold, it’s windy, and visibility isn’t so great.

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And then… it gets worse.

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Until my view degrades to this:

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I can still feel most of my limbs when we reach the top, and the white-out conditions have lifted a bit.

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We pause at the summit for photographs.

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I am photographed.

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The background is… white.

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We trudge back across the summit.  To the left: a cliff.  To the right: a cliff.  Underfoot: unstable sloped snow.

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The white-out comes back.  There are beautiful mountains all around us.  See them?

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“We’ll have lunch in here,” says the guide.

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Just grab onto the ice pick and lower yourself into the hole.

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We’re not  so  sure about this.

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But no time to argue.

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Once you’re wedged in, feel around for a rope to lower you the rest of the way.  It’s only 10m down.

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Nästa.

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And down he goes.

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Nästa.

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The rope drops us 10m deep inside the core of a glacier.

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It’s a tight squeeze through the dark channel until we reach a resting place.

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There is zero light, besides the ones on our heads.

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But there is 3G.  Christian checks in on Facebook.

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We sit down for lunch and coffee.

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Some of the group has to climb into an ice tunnel for seats.

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Some of the group has to crawl into a higher, darker ice tunnel for seats.

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The rest of the cave was blocked off by snow, so after lunch we crawl out.  Scenery is almost visible now.

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We head back down the mountain.  The guide keeps his rifle on at all times.

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Down the mountain.

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The sun is almost out, and the snow is slowing.

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The Finnish guide is disgusted by the sun’s arrival.

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But José is pleased.

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Pontus is… something.

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Everyone stares in awe at the now-appreciable views.

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Snowy mountains.

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How majestic!

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All are invigorated with a new sense of energy.

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And we finish the trip down with ease.

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And grab a ride back to town.

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We consider “Arctic Tapas”

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And laugh about Svalbard Taxis.  There are two short roads!  Who would take a taxi?

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Most of us go out for pre-dinner drinks.  

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Far from civilization, but not far from scotch.

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This bar is for locals, and frequented by miners.  The decorations match the clientele.

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Who would take a taxi?  Us!  It takes us to this nondescript building on the far edge of town.

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Huset.  Michelin Star food outside of the habitable zone.

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There is drinking and socializing.

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Also, there are cell phones.

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Food is served on rocks, so you know it’s good.

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Maybe their dishwasher is on holiday.

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Finally, a real plate!  It’s a bit misshapen, but the reindeer is excellent.

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The price… a little less excellent.

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Back to the pub for post-dinner drinks.